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Plymovent Metal Tube Arms

Plymovent Metal Tube Arms FAQs

Straight answers to the questions people ask most when choosing and using metal tube fume extraction arms.

What is a metal tube extraction arm and when is it the right choice?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A metal tube extraction arm is a jointed arm made of rigid metal tube sections, with swivelling joints that let you place the hood right next to the weld. It is connected to a fan or a filter unit, which draws fume away at the source before it reaches the welder's breathing zone.

Rigid tube arms hold their position once set, stay smooth inside for good airflow and tend to be tougher than flexible hose in a busy workshop. They suit fixed welding stations, benches and repeat work where the hood can be parked and left.

How do I choose the right arm length and reach?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Measure from the mounting point to the furthest place you will actually weld, and choose an arm that reaches it with the joints still slightly bent. An arm stretched fully straight is harder to position and tends to droop or pull out of place.

Also think about the area the arm must cover: a long arm covers a wider circle but is heavier and harder to move precisely. If the work area is large, two arms or a different mounting point is often better than one very long arm.

How close does the hood need to be to the weld?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

As close as you can get it without being in the way. Capture drops off quickly with distance, so a hood close to the arc catches far more fume than the same hood held further back. Guidance on the best distance varies between makers and hood designs, so check the manual for your own arm.

Position the hood to the side or just behind the arc, in the direction the fume rises, so the airflow carries fume away from your face rather than across it. Keep cross-draughts away from the work.

What is the difference between hanging, standing and wall mounting?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Hanging mounts fix the arm from above, from a ceiling, beam or frame, which keeps the floor and bench clear. Standing mounts sit on a base or stand on the floor or bench, which is handy where there is nothing overhead to fix to. Wall mounts bolt the arm to a wall or column and swing it out over the work.

Whichever you choose, the fixing point must be strong enough to carry the arm and cope with it being pulled and pushed. If you are unsure about the structure, ask a competent person to check it.

What size and airflow does the arm need from the fan or filter unit?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The arm's diameter and the airflow of the unit it is connected to must be matched. A fan that is too small gives weak capture at the hood, while a very large fan on a small arm makes noise and may blow the fume around rather than capturing it.

The arm maker will state the airflow needed for effective capture at the hood. Remember that long duct runs, bends and extra arms on the same system all reduce the airflow that reaches each hood, so allow for them when selecting the fan.

Can I use a metal arm where there are flammable or explosive atmospheres?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Only if the arm is specifically designed and marked for that use. Some arms are made in special versions for areas where flammable gas, vapour or dust may be present, with materials and construction that avoid sparks and static build-up.

A standard arm should not be used in such an area. Whether a space counts as a hazardous area is for your site risk assessment to decide, and the arm, the fan and the rest of the system must all be suitable. If in doubt, seek specialist advice before buying.